A Castilian journey (and III)

In the account of my Castilian trip this summer, at the end, when we were about to take the train in Palencia back to Madrid, we had the opportunity to visit the town of Támara, where the Leonese, in 1036, lost the battle after which they were absorbed by Castile for the first time. Then there would be a new separation, and a new definitive incorporation in 1230, with Fernando III the Saint.

León took a backseat, although in 1492 it was still said that “Columbus discovered a new world through Castile and León.” The surprise is that today, in the 21st century, the nationalisms of yesteryear are trying to revive the old Kingdom of León as an autonomous community, which would include the province of the same name, plus Zamora and Salamanca.

It is an endeavour that I believe to be impracticable, given that, according to the 1978 Constitution, we have already had half a century of autonomous communities, with a new State structure. That in the territories of Castile and Leon, the undisputed capital is Valladolid. Without the proposal of the Leonese having a greater impact so many centuries later. With such nostalgia, the visit to Támara is interesting: a beautiful, well-preserved church and solitary stone streets, for another thousand years.

Finally we pass through the town of Torquemada, which reminds us in its name of the first patron of the famous Spanish Inquisition, prior to the creation of the Papacy to oversee Catholic dogma. It was later introduced into Spain by the Catholic Monarchs; and is still considered to be an original work of Castile, when it was not.

And so ends the Castilian summer trip: between stories and legends, conversations and meditations, and Spain emptied in winter and full in summer. Also landscapes, memories and hospitality of excellent hosts like Paloma and Juan. My gratitude, friends of so many years.